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Axum
Axum, Ethiopia's most
ancient city and the capital of the historic Axumite
state, is the site of many remarkable monolithic stone
stelae, or obelisks, the three most important being
decorated to represent multi-storied buildings, complete
with doors and windows.
The largest obelisk, which
was 35 meters long and weighed 500 tons, is the biggest
piece of stone ever cut by humanity anywhere in the world
but today it lies broken on the ground. Near it stands a
smaller but nevertheless most impressive 24-metre-high
obelisk - the pride of Ethiopia. A somewhat larger obelisk
was taken to Rome, on the orders of the Italian fascist
dictator Benito Mussolini, in 1937, but its return to
Axum is expected. Plans are also under consideration for
the re-erection of the fallen obelisk.
Axum, in its day, was a
great commercial centre, issuing its own currency and
trading with Egypt, Arabia, Persia, India and even Ceylon.
The settlement was also the site of Ethiopia's oldest
church, which dated back to the coming of Christianity as
the state religion, early in the 4th Century. The
original building has long since disappeared but a
structure erected on its site by Emperor Fasiladas in the
early 17th Century is still there. A nearby outhouse is
the reputed repository of the biblical Ark of the
Covenant. This historic relic cannot be seen but visitors
there can see and photograph a number of the remarkable
crowns that belonged to several notable Ethiopian
monarchs of the past.
Just out of the town, the
remains of an early Axumite palace, popularly thought to
have belonged to the Queen of Sheba, are well worth a
visit. The remains are located at Dangur, near the
mountain from which the obelisks were originally
excavated. The beautifully worked tombs of several
ancient Axumite rulers and the local archaeological
museum are also worth a visit. About 45 per cent of the
Ethiopian population is Muslim. Most of the Christians
belonging to the Ethiopian Orthodox Church, whose 4th
Century beginnings came long before Europe accepted
Christianity. A further small percentage of the population
adheres to traditional and other beliefs, including
Judaism.
Description
The
legacy of the Queen of Sheba lies just below the shifting
sands, and churches hewn out of sheer rock attract
wide-eyed tourists. The African nation's historic route
begins in the ancient city of Axum, which dates to about
100 B.C. This capital city was the first place in Ethiopia
to adopt a new religion -- Christianity. According to the
Old Testament,
The Queen of Sheba was born in Axum,
but travelled to Israel to meet King Solomon. They had a
son named Menelik, who later became the first emperor of
Ethiopia. Menelik brought the original Arc of the Covenant
back to Ethiopia from Israel. Today, the Arc, which once
housed the Ten Commandments, remains well hidden in Axum.
It is guarded by a select group of monks, whose sole
commitment is to protect the sacred vessel. Axum is also
known for its massive, towering sculptures that are more
than two thousand years old. Their significance is still
under investigation by archaeologists.
365 kilometres northeast of Gondar lies the town of Axum,
Ethiopia's oldest city. Axum dates back some 2,000 years
to when it was the hub of the Axumite Empire. The Queen of
Sheba made it her capital 1000 years before Christ. The
Ethiopian Orthodox Church was founded here in the fourth
century and Axum remains the holiest city of the Ethiopian
Orthodox Church.
Attraction
All that remains now of Axum's past glories are the huge
granite stelae (pillars), some fallen and some still
perpendicular. Made of single blocks of granite, the
tallest stood over 33 metres high - the largest monolith
in the world. The biggest now standing is 23 metres high.
Other Attractions
The 16th century Church of St Mary of Zion is the holiest
Christian sanctuary in Ethiopia, and Ethiopians believe
that the church houses the Ark of the Covenant, containing
the tables on which Moses wrote the Ten Commandments.
Menelik is reputed to have brought it to Axum, along with
12,000 Jewish children. The Chapel is constantly guarded
by monks, and not even the President has sufficient
authority to enter.
The Grave of King Kaleb and the Grave of King Gabre, the
reputed Bath of the Queen of Sheba, and a Museum are other
historical attractions in the town. The ruins a few
kilometres out of town to the north were once the Palace
of Sheba apparently. The entrance stairs and floor plan
are intact and the Palace had over 50 rooms.
The entrance ticket to the sights of Axum allows only one
entry to each site but visits may take place over several
days. It is essential to bring your own torch to view the
tombs.
Restaurant
The Bazen, Kaleb, Ghenet and Africa hotels all have a bar
and restaurant. There are also plenty of basic 1 star
cafes in town. The Mini Pastry next door to the Kaleb
Hotel has a courtyard.
Getting There and Away
Air
Ethiopian Airways, daily flight from Addis Ababa. The
Airport is located very close to town, within walking
distance. If you are visiting other cities, there are
special round trip excursions.
Bus
The bus stand in Axum is right in the centre next to the
Big Tree. There are 2 buses daily to Asmara, one departs
at 0800, the journey is 170 kilometres. Journey takes 12
hours. Ensure you have a valid Eritrea Visa.
Route from Addis is via Bahar Dar and Gondar and the whole
journey is 1,100 kilometres. Good sealed road to Adigrat.
Access is difficult June-September when the rains are
heavy. Allow at least 4 days for the journey there, with
stops in Debre Markos, Bahar Dar and Gondar. There are
regular buses running along this route.
From Gondar the journey takes a full day. It is sometimes
necessary to change buses at Shire (Inda Silase).
If travelling into Eritrea the Rama border post, which is
about 1 hour's drive from Axum, opens at 0900. The 120
kilometre journey between Axum and Adigrat takes 4 hours
by bus. There are frequent minibuses between Axum and Adwa.
Close to Adigrat the road climbs up to over 3,000 metres,
offering a view of the highest peak, Alegua, at 3, 291
metres, and overlooks the Hista River gorge offering
spectacular views.
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