Axum

 Axum,  Ethiopia's most ancient city and the capital of the historic Axumite state, is the site of many remarkable monolithic stone stelae, or obelisks, the three most  important being decorated to represent multi-storied buildings, complete with doors and windows.

The largest  obelisk, which was 35 meters long and weighed 500 tons, is the biggest piece of  stone ever cut by humanity anywhere in the world but today it lies broken on the ground. Near it stands a smaller but nevertheless most impressive 24-metre-high obelisk - the pride of Ethiopia. A somewhat larger obelisk was taken to Rome, on  the orders of the Italian fascist dictator Benito Mussolini, in 1937, but its  return to Axum is expected. Plans are also under consideration for the re-erection of the fallen obelisk.

Axum, in its day,  was a great commercial centre, issuing its own currency and trading with Egypt, Arabia, Persia, India and even Ceylon. The settlement was also the site of  Ethiopia's oldest church, which dated back to the coming of Christianity as the  state religion, early in the 4th Century. The original building has long since disappeared but a structure erected on its site by Emperor Fasiladas in the early 17th Century is still there. A nearby outhouse is the reputed repository  of the biblical Ark of the Covenant. This historic relic cannot be seen but visitors there can see and photograph a number of the remarkable crowns that  belonged to several notable Ethiopian monarchs of the past.

Just out of the  town, the remains of an early Axumite palace, popularly thought to have belonged to the Queen of Sheba, are well worth a visit. The remains are located at Dangur, near the mountain from which the obelisks were originally excavated. The  beautifully worked tombs of several ancient Axumite rulers and the local  archaeological museum are also worth a visit. About 45 per cent of the Ethiopian population is Muslim. Most of the Christians belonging to the  Ethiopian Orthodox Church, whose 4th Century beginnings came long before Europe accepted Christianity. A further small percentage of the population adheres to traditional and other beliefs, including Judaism.

Description
The legacy of the Queen of Sheba lies just below the shifting sands, and churches hewn out of sheer rock attract wide-eyed tourists. The African nation's historic route begins in the ancient city of Axum, which dates to about 100 B.C. This capital city was the first place in Ethiopia to adopt a new religion -- Christianity. According to the Old Testament, The Queen of Sheba was born in Axum, but travelled to Israel to meet King Solomon. They had a son named Menelik, who later became the first emperor of Ethiopia. Menelik brought the original Arc of the Covenant back to Ethiopia from Israel. Today, the Arc, which once housed the Ten Commandments, remains well hidden in Axum. It is guarded by a select group of monks, whose sole commitment is to protect the sacred vessel. Axum is also known for its massive, towering sculptures that are more than two thousand years old. Their significance is still under investigation by archaeologists.

365 kilometres northeast of Gondar lies the town of Axum, Ethiopia's oldest city. Axum dates back some 2,000 years to when it was the hub of the Axumite Empire. The Queen of Sheba made it her capital 1000 years before Christ. The Ethiopian Orthodox Church was founded here in the fourth century and Axum remains the holiest city of the Ethiopian Orthodox Church.

Attraction
All that remains now of Axum's past glories are the huge granite stelae (pillars), some fallen and some still perpendicular. Made of single blocks of granite, the tallest stood over 33 metres high - the largest monolith in the world. The biggest now standing is 23 metres high.

Other Attractions
The 16th century Church of St Mary of Zion is the holiest Christian sanctuary in Ethiopia, and Ethiopians believe that the church houses the Ark of the Covenant, containing the tables on which Moses wrote the Ten Commandments. Menelik is reputed to have brought it to Axum, along with 12,000 Jewish children. The Chapel is constantly guarded by monks, and not even the President has sufficient authority to enter.

The Grave of King Kaleb and the Grave of King Gabre, the reputed Bath of the Queen of Sheba, and a Museum are other historical attractions in the town. The ruins a few kilometres out of town to the north were once the Palace of Sheba apparently. The entrance stairs and floor plan are intact and the Palace had over 50 rooms.
The entrance ticket to the sights of Axum allows only one entry to each site but visits may take place over several days. It is essential to bring your own torch to view the tombs.

Restaurant
The Bazen, Kaleb, Ghenet and Africa hotels all have a bar and restaurant. There are also plenty of basic 1 star cafes in town. The Mini Pastry next door to the Kaleb Hotel has a courtyard.

Getting There and Away
Air
Ethiopian Airways, daily flight from Addis Ababa. The Airport is located very close to town, within walking distance. If you are visiting other cities, there are special round trip excursions.
 
Bus
The bus stand in Axum is right in the centre next to the Big Tree. There are 2 buses daily to Asmara, one departs at 0800, the journey is 170 kilometres. Journey takes 12 hours. Ensure you have a valid Eritrea Visa.
Route from Addis is via Bahar Dar and Gondar and the whole journey is 1,100 kilometres. Good sealed road to Adigrat. Access is difficult June-September when the rains are heavy. Allow at least 4 days for the journey there, with stops in Debre Markos, Bahar Dar and Gondar. There are regular buses running along this route.
From Gondar the journey takes a full day. It is sometimes necessary to change buses at Shire (Inda Silase).
If travelling into Eritrea the Rama border post, which is about 1 hour's drive from Axum, opens at 0900. The 120 kilometre journey between Axum and Adigrat takes 4 hours by bus. There are frequent minibuses between Axum and Adwa. Close to Adigrat the road climbs up to over 3,000 metres, offering a view of the highest peak, Alegua, at 3, 291 metres, and overlooks the Hista River gorge offering spectacular views.