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Axum
Axum,
Ethiopia's most ancient city and the capital of the historic Axumite
state, is the site of many remarkable monolithic stone stelae, or
obelisks, the three most important being decorated to represent
multi-storied buildings, complete with doors and windows.
The largest obelisk, which was 35 meters long and weighed 500 tons,
is the biggest piece of stone ever cut by humanity anywhere in the
world but today it lies broken on the ground. Near it stands a
smaller but nevertheless most impressive 24-metre-high obelisk - the
pride of Ethiopia. A somewhat larger obelisk was taken to Rome, on
the orders of the Italian fascist dictator Benito Mussolini, in
1937, but its return to
Axum is expected. Plans are also under consideration for the
re-erection of the fallen obelisk.
Axum, in its day, was
a great commercial centre, issuing its own currency and trading with
Egypt, Arabia, Persia, India and even Ceylon. The settlement was
also the site of Ethiopia's oldest church, which dated back to the
coming of Christianity as the state religion, early in the 4th
Century. The original building has long since disappeared but a
structure erected on its site by Emperor Fasiladas in the early 17th
Century is still there. A nearby outhouse is the reputed repository
of the biblical Ark of the Covenant. This historic relic cannot be
seen but visitors there can see and photograph a number of the
remarkable crowns that belonged to several notable Ethiopian
monarchs of the past.
Just out of the town, the remains of an early Axumite palace,
popularly thought to have belonged to the Queen of Sheba, are well
worth a visit. The remains are located at Dangur, near the mountain
from which the obelisks were originally excavated. The beautifully
worked tombs of several ancient Axumite rulers and the local
archaeological museum are also worth a visit. About 45 per cent of
the Ethiopian population is Muslim. Most of the Christians belonging
to the Ethiopian Orthodox Church, whose 4th Century beginnings came
long before Europe accepted Christianity. A further small percentage
of the population adheres to traditional and other beliefs,
including Judaism.
Description
The legacy of the Queen of Sheba lies just below the
shifting sands, and churches hewn out of sheer rock attract
wide-eyed tourists. The African nation's historic route begins in
the ancient city of Axum, which dates to about 100 B.C. This capital
city was the first place in Ethiopia to adopt a new religion --
Christianity. According to the Old Testament,
The Queen of Sheba was born in Axum,
but travelled to Israel to meet King Solomon. They had a son named
Menelik, who later became the first emperor of Ethiopia. Menelik
brought the original Arc of the Covenant back to Ethiopia from
Israel. Today, the Arc, which once housed the Ten Commandments,
remains well hidden in Axum. It is guarded by a select group of
monks, whose sole commitment is to protect the sacred vessel. Axum
is also known for its massive, towering sculptures that are more
than two thousand years old. Their significance is still under
investigation by archaeologists.
365 kilometres northeast of Gondar lies the town of Axum, Ethiopia's
oldest city. Axum dates back some 2,000 years to when it was the hub
of the Axumite Empire. The Queen of Sheba made it her capital 1000
years before Christ. The Ethiopian Orthodox Church was founded here
in the fourth century and Axum remains the holiest city of the
Ethiopian Orthodox Church.
Attraction
All that remains now of Axum's past glories are the huge granite
stelae (pillars), some fallen and some still perpendicular. Made of
single blocks of granite, the tallest stood over 33 metres high -
the largest monolith in the world. The biggest now standing is 23
metres high.
Other Attractions
The 16th century Church of St Mary of Zion is the holiest Christian
sanctuary in Ethiopia, and Ethiopians believe that the church houses
the Ark of the Covenant, containing the tables on which Moses wrote
the Ten Commandments. Menelik is reputed to have brought it to Axum,
along with 12,000 Jewish children. The Chapel is constantly guarded
by monks, and not even the President has sufficient authority to
enter.
The Grave of King Kaleb and the Grave of King Gabre, the reputed
Bath of the Queen of Sheba, and a Museum are other historical
attractions in the town. The ruins a few kilometres out of town to
the north were once the Palace of Sheba apparently. The entrance
stairs and floor plan are intact and the Palace had over 50 rooms.
The entrance ticket to the sights of Axum allows only one entry to
each site but visits may take place over several days. It is
essential to bring your own torch to view the tombs.
Restaurant
The
Bazen, Kaleb, Ghenet and Africa hotels all have a bar and
restaurant. There are also plenty of basic 1 star cafes in town. The
Mini Pastry next door to the Kaleb Hotel has a courtyard.
Getting There and Away
Air
Ethiopian Airways, daily flight from Addis Ababa. The Airport is
located very close to town, within walking distance. If you are
visiting other cities, there are special round trip excursions.
Bus
The bus stand in Axum is right in the centre next to the Big Tree.
There are 2 buses daily to Asmara, one departs at 0800, the journey
is 170 kilometres. Journey takes 12 hours. Ensure you have a valid
Eritrea Visa.
Route from Addis is via Bahar Dar and Gondar and the whole journey
is 1,100 kilometres. Good sealed road to Adigrat. Access is
difficult June-September when the rains are heavy. Allow at least 4
days for the journey there, with stops in Debre Markos, Bahar Dar
and Gondar. There are regular buses running along this route.
From Gondar the journey takes a full day. It is sometimes necessary
to change buses at Shire (Inda Silase).
If travelling into Eritrea the Rama border post, which is about 1
hour's drive from Axum, opens at 0900. The 120 kilometre journey
between Axum and Adigrat takes 4 hours by bus. There are frequent
minibuses between Axum and Adwa. Close to Adigrat the road climbs up
to over 3,000 metres, offering a view of the highest peak, Alegua,
at 3, 291 metres, and overlooks the Hista River gorge offering
spectacular views.
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