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Ethiopia
Walia Ibex
The habitat of the Walia Ibex
is the High Semyen, Ethiopia's dramatic high mountain
terrain. In the earth's long history of violent
geographical change, the most recent volcanic upheavals
took place in eastern Africa, followed by torrential rains
which created the thousand gushing waterfalls which in
turn eroded away the newly formed mountain massif,
creating the great gorges and gulleys which are so typical
of the region. South west of Axum the land descends
gradually southwards toward the Takazze river. At the lip
of the gorge at about 1,400 metres (4,600 ft.) one can
look across the chasm to a similar plateau beyond. On top
of this plateau, adorned with steep turrets and bastions
rising in three distinct steps, is perched the north wall
of the Semyen.
The mountain massif is a
broad plateau, cut off on the north and west by this
enormous single crag over 60 kms. (40 miles) long and
1,000-1,500 metres (3000-5000 ft.) high. To the south the
table]and slopes gently down to 2,200 metres (7,000 ft.)
divided by deep gorges 1,000 metres deep and taking two
days to cross. Time has not yet been sufficient to soften
the contours of the crags and buttresses of hardened
basalt. As far as the eye can see looking north from the
escarpment, the fused volcanic cores stand starkly defying
the elements. Overhead stretches the vast dome of a sky of
the deepest blue, which spreads downwards as clear as
sapphire to the mauve of the horizon.
In this scenic splendour,
lives the Walia Ibex; here and nowhere else in the world.
Forced by Man to retreat, and to retreat again, it has
been driven in its extremity to inhabit the most
inaccessible (except to a bird or a Walia), cliffs of the
Semyen escarpment. The Walia once existed in significant
numbers probably several thousands in the highland massif,
feeding on the cliff faces and coming up to roam the
plateau at rutting time. Large herds wandered unmolested
on these chilly heights.
Even up to 50 years ago
there were well over a thousand. With the Italian
agression in Ethiopia, the species started its dramatic
decline to the brink of extinction. Guerrillas fighting
the Italians and living off the country found the Walia a
convenient source of meat. Later, the local people again
took i up arms against the Walia, killing perhaps five in
order to reclaim the meat from one. Most of them, whose
wounded bodies spin and crash from the narrow ledges where
they feed, into the abysses a thousand ieet or more below,
are never recovered. Rarely, a rope descent will bring to
the surface the meat and parts of the skin, but the
trophy, the splendid horns desired by locals to make
drinking mugs, and by sportsmen to decorate their sitting
rooms, are usually lost forever.
First recorded in 1835 by
Ruppell, and first properly observed by Powell Cotton at
the beginning of the century (l900), the Walia at that
time was a mythical beast and little was known of its
numbers and status. The inaccessibility of its habitat
combined with various historical events such as the
Italian occupation and World War II, which made visits to
the region out of the question for longish periods, has
prevented the keepiug of a continous record since then. So
until Leslie Brown made his preliminary study in the early
sixties, little was known of its behaviour or habits.
A remnant of the early
incursion of Palearctic fauna into the tropics, the
nearest relative of the Walia is the Nubian Ibex (C.
nubiana). There is a gap of several hundred miles of
lowlands between the southern- most limit of the Nubian
and the highland habitat of the Walia. The Walia differs
in being 1arger and more massive, with dark brown as
opposed to pale brown fur. The horns of the males are more
massive but not quite so long, and have the knobs or
ridges on the anterior surface reduced. The Walia has a
bony process on the forehead. The anatomical differences
together with the differences in habitat have lent weight
to the argument that the Walia is a distinct species.
The terrain which the Walia
inhabits is from 2,300- 4,000 metres (7,500-13,500 ft.)
but chiefly above 2,500 and below 3,000 (8,000-9,500ft.).
The tiny remnant population which remains is now con-
fined to a range of about twenty miles of the highest and
steepest bays and buttresscs of the northern escarpment.
They are already extinct in all other parts of their range
which once stretched from Byeda along the escarpment to
Geech and Adis Gey.
The narrow vertical range
which they tend to occupy today would seem to be the
result of persistent hunting. They have become extremely
wary and shy and chosen to be not get-atable from top or
bottom. With protection maybe they will once again emerge
on to the plateau.
Mountain sheep and goats
have feet that are special- ly adapted for living in
mountainous terrain. Their hooves have sharp edges and the
undersides are concave, enabling them to adhere somewhat
like suction cups. To watch even the youngest and smallest
of the Walia kids gambolling about on slanted rocky ledges
in a cliff face of terrifying steepness, a 500 metre drop
only inches away, makes one catch one's breath with
anxiety. They never fall.
The males and the females
both have horns, but the males' are more massive. Curving
back in a graceful arc to the withers they sometimes
attain a length of over 110 cms. The females are smaller
in body and lighter in colour with shorter thinner horns.
They live in small parties of two to half a dozen and the
big old males often live solitary except during the mating
season. Because of the rarity of the animal, it is not
often possible to observe a large male and one feels
privileged to do so. The magnificent horns and striking
colouration make it an unforgettable sight.
They are sturdily built
animals standing about a metre high at the shoulder and
weighing up to 120 kgs. Their beautiful chocolate to
chestnut brown coats shade to greyish brown round the
muzzle, paler grey around the eyes, lower flanks, legs and
rump, and pale grey or white on the belly and inside of
the legs. There is a black stripe down the outside of the
legs and a white garter on each fetlock broken in the hind
legs by a black streak into the cleft of the hoof. Mature
males sport an elegant black beard. The tail is short with
a brushlike tuft of black hairs.
You can usually observe
them when come out on to the rocky ledges to sun
themselves in the morning and evening. Little herds of
females and young are not uncommon, or even single females
with a kid at foot. Sometimes you will see a yearling
group of young males which can be distinguished by their
paler greyer colour and the thickness of their small short
horns. They eat grass and herbs, but prefer to to browse
rather than graze, standing up on their hind legs like
domestic goats to reach the tender shoots of giant heath.
There is no shortage of food, as inside the forest of
heath there is abundant forage of herbs and sweet soft
grasses. They tend not to drink although water is
plentiful; it is assumed that they get sufficient moisture
from the green stuff on which they feed. They usually lie
up in caves or thickets during the day, although this is
not an in- fallible rule and I have observed them at
lunchtime - a group of youngsters playing in the sun.
The Walia's story is not
yet ended. In 1963 it was classified by the IUCN as in
danger of extinction. In that year the total number
remaining alive was estimated at less than 200, probably
150. Indiscriminate hunting and destruction of habitat by
local people had combined to drive the few remaining
animals on to the vertical cliff sides for survival- (Only
four adult males have been taken since 1956 by legitimate
shooting). Fortunately before the end came the Ethiopian
Government recognized the danger and, in 1965, drew up
plans to establish a national park to protect both the
habitat and its fauna, and the park was gazetted the same
year. It was found that numbers had remained steady for
two years, indicating that with protection they might
increase fairly rapidly. Guards were appointed from Geech
to Mietgogo to curb local poaching and illegal cultivation
and burning of habitat. In the past fifteen years, numbers
have increased steadily, as the females are still ready
and willing to breed in the caves in the cliff face.
At the present time, not
less than 10% of the cliff surface is composed of broad
]edges or green gullies in which Walia can feed. Brown
estimates that this amount of land space can support a
population of two or three thousand. The Walia has no
natural enemies apart possibly from the occasional bird of
prey, and thus with complete protection from Man they
could be expected to recover their numbers and to double
the present population in ten years.
At present it is still
difficult to properly enforce the protection laws, and the
local people cannot be expected to know that this animal
exists only here. Nor could they realize that it could be
anticipated to generate a far larger income if allowed to
live and breed, than its dead parts will ever earn. It can
only be hoped that the precipitous terrain in which the
last survivors live will enable a nucleus herd to survive
until such time as visitors from all over the world will
be able to come and observe this rare creature in the
magnificence of its mountain habitat.
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